Table of Contents:
::::: More Japanese Decks | Coincidence? | Calculator Shortcut | Harpys, Moebiuses and Infiltrators | New Structure Cards | :::::
More Japanese Decks
Well, since I'm playing in the Japanese environment, I might as well tell you about some of the decks that have appeared regularly "around."
As for upping the chances for other deck types to survive in this environment, the ban list has been doing quite well. Prior to this, when Thunder Bolts and everything ran rampant, you wouldn't see a variety of deck types out there. One deck that I've seen played, but not very lately, is the Stall Deck, which mainly relies on the Level Limit card, and burning with Stealth Bird. The sole female player, and one other male player, run a Blue Eyes Deck (she plays it because she's a Kaiba fan). There is also the Black Magician Deck, played by two local players (one of which includes me). Modified Warrior Decks have also been making a splash, which can make good use of the United Army card to boost attack strength of Warriors, and the speed of Troop Commander to quickly get them to the Field (the Warrior deck is my backup deck). Recently, one player ran the Chess Demon Deck, probably inspiried by a recent episode of Yugioh! Duel Monsters GX. The Horus Deck has been doing rather well, and can be beyond brutal when played on the first turn. A somewhat odd deck that has shown up recently is the Twilight Zone Warrior Deck. This deck uses the trio of "remove from the game" Warriors to sweep through the opponent's Field, and commence with the beatdown. Of course, Bounce and the other tournament-level decks appear from time to time.
I've been hanging out with one of the players from the local card shop here, and a rather large coincidence seems to have "happened."
Those who tune in regularly for my articles have run across the blurbs that I have made on original cards. Two prior articles featured pictures of original cards to see what is made in Japan. When I encountered some of them on the Yahoo! Japan auctions site, I archived them on my computer.
Well, a couple of weeks ago, I saw that a Japanese player was giving some "token" cards to another friend. I inquired about if they were real or not, andh e said that they were "originals," meaning that he had made them. As we talked a bit, he told me that he used to auction some of them off on the Yahoo! Japan auctions site. I told him that the possibility that I had a picture from his auction was rather high.
Sure enough, as I went through some of my archive CDs, I found a handful of pictures from original cards that he had auctioned off.
We got to talk a lot about making original cards, and some of the pitfalls for doing so. Initially, he auctioned off a number of them, but eventually got the the point where he was saying to himself, "Well, is Konami going to come after me?" At that time, he just decided to quit auctioning them. He didn't even get contacted by Konami.
However, he DID tell me that there were some aquaintances of his, who did the same kind of auctioning that he did, WERE contacted by Konami, and their aims were shut down (I think a few sites were shut down in the process as well).
The problem was that some followed a little trick to skirt the law on this issue. The actual auction itself was for a random, normal ("common") Yugioh card, but as a bonus, you got the original card. So, technically, they were auctioning off a real card, and "giving" the original card away as a bonus. Those who did that little trick didn't have any contact from Konami (as far as I know). Those who didn't were crushed like cockroaches.
As for making original cards themselves, he told me a number of things that you have to do. First of all, you need some good software. He uses Photoshop to do his editing of the pictures, writing of the text, etc. Next, you need to make templates. Basically, you scan a card and strip it down of everything that you don't need. For example, a lot of Japanese original cards are based on the Black Magician Girl, so all you really do it remove the picture and you're set. If you're making truly original cards, then you need to remove the pictures, the types, and even remove the text from the cards until you have the bare bones.
He suggested that the minimum resolution for a good original card is 300 dpi. He uses an inkjet printer, which is fine since inkjet printers nowadays get better and better. As for printing out the cards, he uses those small "photograph" sheets, which you normally use to print out photographs. It gives the cards a glossy sheen, and look fantastic.
After printing them out, you have to attach them to the back of a real card. This is the tricky part. You have to take a razor, and "split" an existing card (usually a common card) from the side so that you have two halves of a card. You are able to do this since most cards are already constructed of two pieces anyway. Now, cut down your printout to the size of the real backing.
Next, you need to attach it. Some of you are thinking "glue" right off the bat, but he stated that regular glue warps the final product. You have to buy "spray bond," and use that to attach both halves of the card. Let it dry and, BOOM! Original card completed.
If you're making tokens (Scapegoat tokens, etc), you might also want to pick up a small, cheap laminator (small ones here in Japan cost around $30.00). Laminating the tokens makes them look VERY cool.
So, halfway across the world, I ran into someone from an auction that I had a picture of two years ago. Coincidence?
As a side-effect of meeting him, I think I've been getting better at the "Wangan Midnight: Maximum Tune" arcade game. I'm already on my third time through the game. Go MR2!
Well, here is a shortcut with a calculator that Japanese individuals are using, to use only one calculator, instead of two and/or paper. Many are probably already using this technique, but this is for those who don't know.
One player has to be the designated the Life Point tracker. Since most calculators are eight-digit, you start out with the following
The keeper's Life Points are the four digits on the left, and the other player's are on the right. To modify Life Points, first press - or +, then the amount for the other player, or the amount with four more zeros for the keeper. For example, if the non-keeper player receives 2500 damage, press -, then 2500, then =. If the keeper receives 2500 damage, press -, then 2500 with four more zeros. This would be 25000000.
Fast, and oh so simple. You do have to get a little more creative when going above 9999 Life Points, though...
Harpys, Moebiuses and Traps
Two major questions have been popping up on messgae boards lately. And since Rise of Destiny has been released in the U.S., it might be good to go into them now.
First of all, about the new Harpy Lady cards, specifically, Harpy Lady 1, 2 and 3. They count as the name [Harpy Lady] for everything, including deck construction. This means that you can only have a combination of three Harpy Lady cards in your deck. This ruling is located on the Konami of Japan site (for a while now, actually) and in Upper Deck's rulings section, on their Yugioh site. Those who ignored the rather large evidence from the Japanese players and thought that Konami would "magically" make a special exception for the game outside of Japan were rather naive.
The second problem has been with Moebius, and its ability to destroy Magic and Trap cards when it has been successfully Sacrifice Summoned.
You might remember that "summoning chart" that I keep talking about. It's been written a few times in previous articles, so you'll have to look it up in the earlier ones.
"Successfully Summoned" means if it hasn't been negated. In other words, if it didn't get nuked by Ascending Horn or Declaration of God (e. Solmen Judgement), often called by its nickname in Japan, "kamisen."
If it wasn't negated, then it was successfully summoned. This means that even if it is destroyed by another effect after this point, it won't change that fact.
Remember that as soon as it's been successfully summoned, its Permanent Effect (e. Continuous Effect) is turned on (if any), such as with Android Psycho Shocker, or if it has an effect that is triggered by being summoned successfully, it is activated now, and you choose any specific targets for it at this time. After that, it is simply a matter of basic chaining, and almost all of you should know basic chaining by now.
As for Moebius, the summoning goes as follows.
The remaining ruling problem is with the set of Monsters that appear in Rise of Destiny, like the Infiltrator, Manta, Flames, and such, which state that when they are successfully Normal Summoned, Trap card can't be activated. All this means is that when they are successfully summoned, Trap cards can't chain their appearance on the Field. In other words, Pit Trap, Tidal Wave and the like can't be activated when they appear. After that, Trap cards can be activated as normal.
New Structure Cards
If you've been to any number of message boards lately, you've seen the translations for the new structure cards. Though the decks haven't been released at the time of writing this, they have appeared in the most-recent V-Jump, so I've written mine here, for those that want an easy location to find them, or simply prefer my style of writing.
RED EYES DARKNESS DRAGON
This card can't be Normal Summoned. This card can only be
Special Summoned by sacrificing a [Red Eyes Black Dragon]
on your Field. Increase this card's attack strength by 300
for each Dragon Sub-Type Monster in your Cemetery.
This card can't be Normal Summoned. This card can only be
Special Summoned by removing a [Vampire Lord] on your Field
from the game. You can discard 1 Undead Sub-Type Monster
from your hand to the Cemetery to choose 1 Undead Sub-Type
Monster in your Cemetery with Level lower than the discarded
Undead Sub-Type Monster, and Special Summon it. You can use
this effect only 1 time per turn.
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